PACT raises £9m Seed to industrialise collagen biomaterials

PACT has raised a £9m Seed round to advance the development and reach of pioneering biomaterials inspired by nature. This includes their inaugural material, Oval; a scalable biomaterial crafted from natural collagen.

Elegant and versatile, the impact of Oval is already rippling across the fashion industry, with a range of the world’s leading luxury maisons partnering with PACT to embrace its creative potential.

PACT’s Seed round was joined by Hoxton Ventures, ReGen Ventures, Celsius Industries (formerly UNTITLED) and Polytechnique Ventures. It will see the company scale-up production capabilities for its groundbreaking collagen technology, invest in further biomaterial breakthroughs, and bring new foundational materials to the world of fashion, luxury, and beyond.

To enable this expansion, the company has invested in a new 13,820 square foot headquarters in Cambridge, including a laboratory and pilot production facility.

Yudí Ding CEO at PACT, said: “Our commitment at PACT is to craft beautiful, adaptable materials inspired by and derived from the natural world. We have poured energy and creativity into our innovations, ensuring they can meet the standards of the world’s most prestigious brands and respect their heritage, whilst also being truly scalable. By partnering with luxury Maisons on these new foundational materials, we stand on the cusp of a new era of collaboration between science and elegance; one where sustainability is fused and suffused with beauty.

“Bringing these esteemed investors, who have deep connections to and understanding of the industry, on board will help us accelerate our progress to date, work with more client partners worldwide and unlock further biomaterial breakthroughs.”

PACT was founded in 2020 by scientist and engineer Yudí Ding (CEO) and physicist and engineer Niels Ramay (COO). The foundations of the company were laid during Ding’s PhD research at the University of Cambridge. His work on proteins found within and around cells inspired the idea for a biomaterial derived entirely from nature. The pair have shaped the science which makes it possible to create beautiful biomaterials from natural proteins, herbal extracts and minerals that also have the flexibility and creative potential of traditional materials including but not limited to leather and fabrics.

PACT’s first-of-its-kind material, Oval, is a revolutionary material made from natural collagen, a noble ingredient often used in high-end cosmetics, skincare and pharmaceuticals. PACT has collaborated with leading collagen manufacturers and developed a patented process that transforms cosmetic-grade collagen into collagen skins. These are enriched with natural ingredients and further enhanced using time-honoured finishing techniques inspired by leather artisans and master craftspeople.

Thanks to the skin-like quality of collagen, Oval exhibits a refined hand-feel, suppleness and durability. It has been embraced by leading fashion houses and groups across the globe, for whom quality and versatility is paramount. Oval responds to environmental factors (such as scratches, water and sunlight) in a way that closely mirrors traditional materials like leather. But the flexibility of the material means it can also be crafted to achieve a completely new and innovative aesthetic, such as canvas and a wider range of fabrics. It can be embossed, printed on and finished, as well as produced in every possible texture, pattern and colour; allowing designers limitless creative control over the material.

The PACT biomaterial innovations are designed to be “drop-in solutions”, meaning they don’t require new machinery or production technology. The company is working closely with leaders in the luxury fashion supply chain to ensure brands can embrace the offering on a global scale - a core tenet of its commercial success to date.

Folding Oval into their stable of chosen materials has a significant sustainability impact for PACT’s client partners, as brands work to reduce their climate footprints whilst safeguarding their commitment to heritage and quality. The production of textiles and leather contributes 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2e per year. The production of Oval uses significantly less water and has a dramatically reduced carbon footprint. Embracing Oval for just 1% of the current use of leather and synthetic-coated textiles would save 4.8 million tonnes of CO2e per year.

Following this raise, and with a range of top luxury fashion brands already engaged in long-term scale-up and industrialisation plans for Oval, the PACT team will now expand across new industries, including footwear, interiors, and automotive, as well as discover and develop a wider suite of game-changing biomaterials.

Charles Seely, General Partner at Hoxton Ventures, who led the round, said:

"We have been incredibly impressed by Yudi, Niels, and the wider PACT team; one that comprises some of the most exciting talent we've seen at Seed stage. The company's innovative biomaterial technology combines the aesthetics—such as touch, look, and refined ageing—of heritage materials, with high-performance and scalable economic production. This meets the rigorous demands of leading companies in luxury and beyond. We're excited to be part of their journey.”